Thailand's northern capital is best explored on foot from inside the moat. Here's how to base yourself for temples, markets and mountain air.
Sleep inside the Old City
Within the square moat you can walk to Wat Phra Singh, Wat Chedi Luang and the Sunday Walking Street. Boutique guesthouses here are exceptional value.
Nimman for cafés
West of the moat, Nimmanhaemin is the city's café-and-design quarter — quieter at night, minutes from the old town by songthaew.
Doi Suthep at sunrise
Leave before dawn for the mountain temple above the city — you'll beat the tour buses and catch the valley mist burning off below the golden chedi.
Chiang Mai